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Homes For Sale in Stanton Creek May 2016

Fort Collins CO Homes For Sale in Stanton Creek

Fort Collins CO homes for sale in Stanton Creek May 2016 where 5 homes were available. This is a decrease over the same month last year when there were 12 Stanton Creek Fort Collins CO homes for sale. This May there were -0- Stanton Creek Fort Collins home sold and the same as the same month last year when -0- homes in Stanton Creek sold. The average sale price of Stanton Creek homes for sale was $ -0- during May, 2016, over last May, 2015, when the average sale price was $-0-.

Click inside the graph to get the current information.

Click inside the graph to get the current information.

For more information about last month see the post at Fort Collins Homes for Sale in Stanton Creek May 2016.

Fort Collins CO Homes For Sale May 2016 where there were 816 homes available within the Fort Collins regional area. This is a increase of 12.86 % over the same month last year when there were 723 Fort Collins homes for sale. This May there were 300 Fort Collins homes sold an increase of 14.94% over the same month last year when 261 homes in the Fort Collins region were sold. The average sale price of Fort Collins CO homes for sale May 2016 was $354,500 during May, 2016, an increase of 9.08% over last May 2015, when the average sale price was $325,000.

For more information about last month see the Fort Collins Homes For Sale April 2016.

Search in the box below for Fort Collins CO Homes for sale in Stanton Creek by typing ‘Stanton Creek’ into the ‘Area Subdivision’ then Click on the magnifying-glass icon. 
Subscribe to this feed for the Stanton Creek neighborhood.

Find out what you home is worth at whats-my-home-worth

Originally posted at: Fort Collins CO Homes For Sale in Stanton Creek May 2016

See more homes at: http://www.EdPowersRealEstate.com and find more details at http://www.SearchColoradoProperties.org

Copyright Ed Powers www.EdPowersRealEstate.com Where there can be found Fort Collins CO Homes For Sale May 2016 .

Fort Collins CO Homes For Sale May 2016

Fort Collins CO Homes For Sale May 2016 where there were 816 homes available within the Fort Collins regional area. This is a increase of 12.86 % over the same month last year when there were 723 Fort Collins homes for sale. This May there were 300 Fort Collins homes sold an increase of 14.94% over the same month last year when 261 homes in the Fort Collins region were sold. The average sale price of Fort Collins CO homes for sale was $354,500 during May, 2016, an increase of 9.08% over last May 2015, when the average sale price was $325,000.

For more information about last month see the Fort Collins Homes For Sale April 2016.

Search in the box below for Fort Collins CO Homes for sale by typing ‘Fort Collins’ into the first search box then Click on the magnifying-glass icon. 
Subscribe to this feed for all the Fort Collins Homes for sale.

Find out what you home is worth at whats-my-home-worth

Originally posted at: SearchColoradoProperties.org

See more homes at: http://www.EdPowersRealEstate.com and find more details at http://www.SearchColoradoProperties.org

Copyright Ed Powers www.EdPowersRealEstate.com Where there can be found Fort Collins CO Homes For Sale May 2016 .

Free Energy Audit Offers Big Savings

Avoid Unecessary Energy Costs

To realize huge savings begin to assess how much energy your home consumes and to evaluate what measures you can take to make your home more energy efficient is the first step. Complete an assessment that will show you problems that could, when corrected, save you significant amounts of money over time.

Although a professional home energy audit is the best way to determine where your home is losing energy and where you can save, you can conduct your own simple walk-through and spot many problems in any type of house. This owner-do-it-yourself home energy audit will not be as complete as a professional home energy assessment, but it can help you pinpoint some of the easier areas to address. When walking through your home, keep a checklist of areas you have inspected and problems you found. This list will help you prioritize your energy efficiency upgrades. Do not assume that just because your home is recently constructed that there very well may be opportunities to save energy. Energy-saving technology has evolved rapidly over the past few years, outpacing training commonly available to many builders, including some of the most reputable.

LOCATE AIR LEAKS

First, make a list of obvious air leaks (drafts). The potential energy savings from reducing drafts in a home may range from 5% to 30% per year, and the home is generally much more comfortable afterward.

Check for indoor air leaks, such as gaps along the baseboard or edge of the flooring and at junctures of the walls and ceiling. Also check for leaks on the outside of your home, especially in areas where two different building materials meet. Other places to check for leaks include windows, doors, lighting and plumbing fixtures, switches, and electrical outlets. Also check for open fireplace dampers.

Seal Air Leaks

You should plug and caulk holes or penetrations for faucets, pipes, electric outlets, and wiring. Look for cracks and holes in the mortar, foundation, and siding, and look for leaks around windows and doors. Seal them with the appropriate material. Lookup more about selecting and applying caulk and weatherstripping.

Consider Ventilation

When sealing any home, you must always be aware of the danger of indoor air pollution and combustion appliance “backdrafts.” Backdrafting is when the various combustion appliances and exhaust fans in the home compete for air. An exhaust fan may pull the combustion gases back into the living space. This can obviously create a very dangerous and unhealthy situation in the home.

In homes where a fuel is burned (i.e., natural gas, fuel oil, propane, or wood) for heating, be certain the appliance has an adequate air supply. Generally, one square inch of vent opening is required for each 1,000 Btu of appliance input heat. Burn marks or soot around the appliance burner or at the vent collar, or visible smoke anywhere in the utility room while the appliance is operating, indicate poor draft. When in doubt, contact your local utility company, energy professional, or ventilation contractor.

CHECK INSULATION

Heat loss through the ceiling and walls in your home could be very large if the insulation levels are less than the recommended minimum. When your house was built, the builder likely installed the amount of insulation recommended at that time. Given today’s energy prices (and future prices that will probably be higher), the level of insulation might be inadequate, especially if you have an older home.

If the attic hatch is located above a conditioned space, check to see if it is at least as heavily insulated as the attic, is weather stripped, and closes tightly. In the attic, determine whether openings for items such as pipes, ductwork, and chimneys are sealed. Seal any gaps with an expanding foam caulk or some other permanent sealant. When sealing gaps around chimneys or other heat producing devices, be sure to use a non-combustible sealant.

While you are inspecting the attic, check to see if there is a vapor barrier under the attic insulation. The vapor barrier might be tarpaper, Kraft paper attached to fiberglass batts, or a plastic sheet. If there does not appear to be a vapor barrier, you might consider painting the interior ceilings with vapor barrier paint. This reduces the amount of water vapor that can pass through the ceiling. Large amounts of moisture can reduce the effectiveness of insulation and promote structural damage.

Make sure that the attic vents are not blocked by insulation. You also should seal any electrical boxes in the ceiling with flexible caulk (from the living room side or attic side) and cover the entire attic floor with at least the current recommended amount of insulation.

Checking a wall’s insulation level is more difficult. Select an exterior wall and turn off the circuit breaker or unscrew the fuse for any outlets in the wall. Be sure to test the outlets to make certain that they are not “hot.” Check the outlet by plugging in a functioning lamp or portable radio. Once you are sure your outlets are not getting any electricity, remove the cover plate from one of the outlets and gently probe into the wall with a thin, long stick or screwdriver. A plastic crochet hook is particularly suited, as it will retrieve small bits of any insulation material for easy identification. If you encounter a slight resistance, you have some insulation there. You could also make a small hole in a closet, behind a couch, or in some other unobtrusive place to see what, if anything, the wall cavity is filled with. Ideally, the wall cavity should be totally filled with some form of insulation material. Unfortunately, this method cannot tell you if the entire wall is insulated, or if the insulation has settled. Only a thermographic inspection can do this.

If your basement or crawlspace is unconditioned and open to the exterior, determine whether there is insulation under the living area flooring. In most areas of the country, an R-value of 25 is the recommended minimum level of insulation. If the sub-space is enclosed and contains heating or cooling appliances, air ducts or plumbing, you should probably insulate the sub-space perimeter rather than the living space floor. The insulation at the top of the foundation wall and first floor perimeter should have an R-value of 19 or greater. If the basement is intentionally conditioned, the foundation walls should also be insulated to at least R-19. Your water heater, hot water pipes, and furnace ducts should all be insulated.

INSPECT HEATING AND COOLING EQUIPMENT

Inspect heating and cooling equipment annually, or as recommended by the manufacturer. If you have a forced-air furnace, check your filters and replace them as needed. Generally, you should change them about once every month or two, especially during periods of high usage. Have a professional check and clean your equipment once a year.

If the unit is more than 15 years old, you should consider replacing your system with one of the newer, energy-efficient units. A new unit would greatly reduce your energy consumption, especially if the existing equipment is in poor condition. Check your ductwork for dirt streaks, especially near seams. These indicate air leaks, and they should be sealed with a duct mastic. Insulate any ducts or pipes that travel through unheated spaces. An insulation R-Value of 6 is the recommended minimum.

LIGHTING

Energy for lighting accounts for about 10% of your electric bill. Examine the light bulbs in your house and consider replacing inefficient bulbs with a more efficient choice, such as energy-saving incandescents, compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), or light-emitting diodes (LEDs). When shopping for bulbs, consider the brightness of the bulbs you want and look for lumens and the Lighting Facts label. Your electric utility may offer rebates or other incentives for purchasing energy-efficient lamps. Also look for ways to use controls such as sensors, dimmers, or timers to reduce lighting use.

APPLIANCES AND ELECTRONICS

The appliances and electronics you choose and how you use them affect your energy use and costs. Examine the appliances and electronics in your home and estimate their energy use. Consider strategies for reducing the energy use of your appliances and electronics.

You might consider the following:

  • Unplugging an item when it is not in use to prevent phantom loads
  • Changing the settings or using the item less often
  • Purchasing a new, more efficient product. Learn more about shopping for efficient appliances and electronics.

YOUR WHOLE-HOUSE PLAN

After you know where your home is losing energy, make a plan by asking yourself a few questions:

  • How much money do you spend on energy?
  • Where are your greatest energy losses?
  • How long will it take for an investment in energy efficiency to pay for itself in energy cost savings?
  • Do the energy-saving measures provide additional benefits that are important to you—for example, increased comfort from installing double-paned, efficient windows?
  • How long do you plan to own your current home?
  • Can you do the job yourself or do you need a contractor?
  • What is your budget?
  • How much time do you have for maintenance and repairs?

PROFESSIONAL HOME ENERGY AUDIT

Once you have finished your do-it-yourself audit, consider calling in a pro to complete a more thorough assessment. Your self-assessment can help the auditor better analyze your home and potential areas for saving.

A professional home energy checkup helps owners determine where their house is losing energy and money – and how such problems can be corrected to make the home more energy efficient. A professional technician — often called an energy auditor — can give your home a checkup. Items shown here include checking for leaks, examining insulation, inspecting the furnace and ductwork, performing a blower door test and using an infrared camera.

While certainly a worthwhile undertaking for any home
owners who wants to trim his utility bills, the typical,
commercially-offered home energy audit is a lengthy and
expensive proposition. So begin with the recommended owner-do-it-yourself home energy audit.

 

Does Your House Need a Makeover?

Decide to Sell As-Is or Updated

The decision to update needs to be weighed against what you hope to accomplish.

So maybe your family size has changed or you have taken a new job in a new location, the decision to sell or update may involve deciding on whether to update or just get moved quickly. According to the U.S. Census, Homeowners nationwide will spend over $200 billion this year to either remodel or repair their homes.
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The National Association of Home Builders’ Remodeling Council, Remodeling Index, says minor alterations are at $25,000 or below and major alterations above that amount.

So is it worth $25,000-plus to update or should you sell? There are reasons in favor of both. We should talk about updating first.

1. Your community is great, why move? For some homeowners
they already live in the best community for their family and
lifestyle. The schools are great, it’s near their worship center,
shopping and they are plugged in with neighbors and the
community. So instead of moving, it might be best to expand or
remodel.
2. Sometimes, it’s just time to upgrade the house — even if
you’re planning on selling in the future. If you bought a home
with 15-year-old appliances and décor, it may be time to switch
them out, now that they are 20 or 25 years old. I always get
frustrated with homeowners who want to remodel right before
they move — they’ve never had the opportunity to enjoy the
house they’ve just remodeled. Upgrades may include flooring,
bathrooms, kitchen, exterior facelift, paint, curtains, furniture —
not just the house itself.
3. It might be cheaper than selling. If you’re needing more
space, the remodel may actually be cheaper than selling,
especially if you’re looking at finishing or remodeling the
basement. The basement remodel is the easiest and most
affordable remodel available to homeowners because the
exterior walls, plumbing and most electric may have already
been run throughout.
4. You’re a do-it-yourselfer. Okay, you love those Old House,
Fix-It or Nix-It, Saturday morning programs. Living in a
dust-ridden environment with tools and power cords strewn
throughout is your vision of heaven on earth. Go for it.
5. You’ll have to remodel the new house anyway. Most new homeowners spend upwards to 30 percent of the value of the
new house they just bought fixing it up the way they want — so
why move? Just spend that money where you are.

Now, there are just as many reasons to move instead of
remodeling.
1. The move could take less time and hassle. Depending on the
condition of your local market, you may be able to list, sell and
move in a shorter period of time than it would take to actually
remodel your current home. Time is a major factor in our busy
lives, and many times it would be quicker to just move.
2. Remodeling would disrupt your lifestyle more than you’re
willing to deal with. You have to hire a designer, then a
contractor, move furniture from one area to another in your
house, find storage for the rest, live with dust, workmen, etc.,
for several months and then HOPE you like what you get at the
end of it. Better to buy the house that’s already finished the way
you want it than betting on a finished product you’re not sure
about.
3. You don’t want the hassle of dealing with contractors in case
they don’t get it right. The challenge for remodelers is that they
are being told by a remodeling-challenged homeowner what
they want and then try to create that environment. If the
homeowner doesn’t like it at the end — it’s very expensive to
change once it’s done.
4. Remodeling could cost more than moving. For some people,
to get what they really want, they would have to double their
mortgage anyway — so it might be better to check out what’s
available in new construction or even in a move up in the
community. Plus, builders in some markets are starting to offer
free upgrades — including rec rooms, decks, and other add-ons
that usually are the subject of a remodel job.
5. Finally, you’re family has enlarged. You just may need a
larger home because you have more children or your
parents/au pair/adult children have moved in with you.
When it’s time to remodel, speak with your real estate broker
before making your final decision, it might be in your best
interest to make that move instead of knocking down a wall.

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